
Kaela Cote-Stemmermann
Food & Culture ReporterKaela Cote Stemmermann covers food and culture for City Cast DC.
To some, D.C. winters are the worst of both worlds. No snow, but cold enough to demand a full winter getup. But me? I love the early nights, neighborhood walks full of twinkling lights, and hot toddies. Here's how to romanticize D.C. like a cringey holiday rom-com.
To some, D.C. winters are the worst of both worlds. No snow, but cold enough to demand a “real” winter jacket. But me? I love the early nights, neighborhood walks full of twinkling lights, hot toddies, and fire pits. This year, I'm embracing cozy season (like any good introvert) and romanticizing D.C. like I'm in a cringey holiday rom-com.
Year after year, the cold weather brings me back to my favorite speakeasies and cocktail bars. The small oak interior and ever-burning fireplace at 600T make the $19 cocktails go down easy. And the El Chalet pop-up at Mercy Me (with two fireplaces) has become a recent favorite. But a bar doesn’t need a fireplace to feel cozy. Red Derby projects the same vibe with just red Christmas lights and extra oily tater tots. Meanwhile, “cozy” should be McClellan’s Retreat’s middle name; the low ceilings and red leather screaming at you to write that novel while sipping a whiskey neat.

Meanwhile, I’m already planning my annual fire pit party in Rock Creek Park (pro tip: Reese's in your s’more will change your life), but restaurants like The Dabney and Maydan offer that fire-roasted flavor without the need to bring your own kindling.
When the tipsy warmth isn’t enough, it’s time to find a hearty bowl of soup. Not everyone loves a seafood soup, but to those, I say, have you tried the Gaeng Som Salmon soup at Baan Mae? It has tamarind, basil, coconut sticky rice, and everything nice. For those less seaworthy, the lemongrass pho at Pho Viet and the aush soup with ground beef and yogurt at Lapis also do the job.

One of my favorite parts of D.C. winter is, despite not having much snow, we still insist on going all out on holiday markets. This year, the Anacostia Arts Center is hosting a week-long Umoja or “unity” Market with dozens of workshops and local vendors. The Yalda Winter Solstice Market is happening this weekend at the Brookland Arts Walk with Persian inspired food and art vendors. And of course, there is always the Procrastinator's Holiday Market for those who wait a little too long for that perfect gift (me).
But really, you don’t need to spend money to embrace the hygge. Appreciation is the reason for the season after all. Lately, I’ve taken to slapping on my headphones (S/O April + VISTA, our latest local music obsession) and going for an evening walk through my neighborhood while (respectively) peeping in windows to check out people’s lights. It makes returning to my own home feel that much cozier.

Kaela Cote Stemmermann covers food and culture for City Cast DC.
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